The Magnolia Betty Plant – A Comprehensive Guide to Planting

It’s easy to see why the Magnolia Betty (Magnolia soulangeana ‘Betty’) – known simply as Magnolia Betty as an adjective – is a favourite among gardening enthusiasts, having achieved rock star status over the past several decades. It’s one of the most loved deciduous flowering shrubs or small trees of the world, prized for its fragrant, spring-blooming flowers created by mauve petals with white centres reminiscent of crêpes on a hot summer’s day, all tending towards a classic pink and purple palette. This hybrid of soulangeana, part of the so-called ‘Little Girl’ series of clones developed in the mid-20th century, boasts a compact habit in a comparatively small foliage shrub that grows well in a wide range of conditions. As a beginner to intermediate gardener, following some straightforward planting, growing and care instructions for the Magnolia Betty will help you bring to life a thriving specimen to grace the landscape.

 

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Understanding the Magnolia Betty Plant

The Magnolia Betty is one of eight hybrid magnolias sometimes called the ‘Little Girl’ series, introduced in the 1950s by the United States National Arboretum. These hybrids resulted from crosses of Magnolia stellata and Magnolia liliflora, and produced a series of later-blooming magnolias, less susceptible to late-spring frost that can damage early blooming varieties. The Magnolia Betty has especially large, starry flowers in pinks and purples.

Physical Characteristics

The Magnolia Betty (Magnolia liliiflora ‘Betty’) is typically a multi-stemmed shrub or small tree that can reach heights of 10 to 15 feet with a spread of 8 to 12 feet at maturity. The plant is handsome year-round, with dark green ovate leaves up to 6 inches long. It’s the flowers that are truly show-stopping, however. A perfect bloom is like a bouquet in itself because the petals are narrow and gently twisted. Each flower has up to eight or more petals and can be up to 8 inches across. The colour of the flower is a deep purple at the base of the petals and fades over two-thirds of its length ending in the tiniest lighter pink at the edges. It’s a stunning garden colour and a perfect feature in any landscape.

Ideal Growing Conditions

To have growing success, plant Magnolia Betty in the environment as close as possible to that in the wild. It does best in USDA zones 5-9, a vast reach across the temperate climates of northern North America and Pacific coast into northeastern South America. Dappled shade suits it well, but it can be planted in full sun in cooler climates. In the upper end of its hardiness range and in our oppressive deep southern summers where multi-digit temperatures and many days of 100+ F heat are common, it thrives with morning sun and afternoon shade. Its preferred soil characteristic is excellent drainage but it can tolerate some shade and ephemerjection. The pH is slightly acidic to neutral (pH 5.5 to 7.0) and humus-rich. It is an adaptable shrub but will live its best life in loam, fertile, moist but well-draining soil.

Planting Magnolia Betty

Plant in early spring or fall, preferably when the weather is cool; not freezing, but only a few degrees above. This timing gives the plant time to get established before the stress of seasonal extremes. Select a spot with full sun but with some wind protection, so that winds will not knock the plant. Consider the mature size, and make sure the eventual dimensions will suit the space.

Soil Preparation

But before planting Magnolia Betty, you need to do some work to optimise the soil for her growth. First, test the soil to determine the pH, and adjust its acidity if needed at least to the low end of the range. If the soil is too alkaline, you can decrease its pH with organic materials such as compost or peat moss. Once you’ve done this, loosen the soil in the hole to a depth of at least a foot and sprinkle compost or well-rotted manure to improve drainage and fertility. If the soil is clay, raise the hole higher than the soil surface to put your shrub on a berm, or amend the soil with sand or gravel to improve drainage.

Planting Process

Dig a hole that’s twice as wide and as deep as the rootball of Magnolia Betty. Take the plant out of its pot (don’t allow the roots to get damaged while doing this). Put the plant in the hole (make sure the top of the rootball is even with the surrounding soil). Gently backfill the hole with the amended soil, pack it lightly to get rid of the air pockets. Moisturise after planting the Magnolia Betty in the ground. This will ensure that the soil drops back around the roots and makes good contact with the roots.

Caring for Magnolia Betty

Watering: Water is important the first 2-3 years after planting. Magnolia Betty needs consistently moist soil but with the caution to avoid waterlogging it, which can cause root rot. If it is planted in dry soil, it will need to be watered thoroughly every week during drier periods to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. To help with soil moisture retention and to regulate soil temperature and help discourage weeds, mulch 2-3 inches around the plant with organic material such as wood chips or bark. When mulching, please keep the mulch away from the base of the tree as this can help to prevent the tree from rotting.

Fertilizing

Magnolia Betty should be fed regularly, especially in growing season. In early spring, before new growth emerges, fertilise lightly with a balanced, slow-release fertiliser for acid-loving plants. Apply it evenly around the base of the tree to nourish the roots and promote a strong, vigorous plant with lots of beautiful flowers. If the soil is very poor, you can boost the fertiliser with an additional light feeding once or twice more during the growing season. Always follow the directions on the fertiliser’s packaging when applying a product. Do not over-fertilise your plant, as that could cause problems.

Pruning and Maintenance

In general, pruning of Magnolia Betty should be kept minimil to just shaping the branches into a pleasing shape, since it will require very little if any maintenance pruning because of its naturally rounded shape. Any major pruning necessary to remove dead, damaged or crossing branches should be done in late winter or early spring before the buds begin to break dormancy. Do your best to avoid heavy pruning as it will reduce flowers during subsequent flowering for the plant. Ensure to watch for any signs of diseases or pest infestations and treat them at the earliest so as to keep the plant healthy.

Pest and Disease Management

Magnolia Betty is fairly disease and pest resistant but not 100 per cent invincible. She can get scale insects, aphids and spider mites, all of which can be controlled by careful inspections and, if needed, spraying with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Likely diseases include powdery mildew, leaf spot, and canker. These last three can coexist too. They crop up when it’s humid, so prevent them by making sure that your plant is in an area is irrigated at ground level, and that of sunlight. Prune away leaves or branches that have mildew, spot, or canker as soon as you spot them.

Propagating Magnolia Betty

Magnolia Betty can be grown from seed, by cuttings, or by layering (bending a twig over until it touches the soil and then pinning it down to become a new root system). For home gardeners, propagation by cuttings is the most common. To do this, find a 6 inch- to 8 inch-long healthy cut from a non-flowering branch taken in late spring or early summer, and dip the end of the cutting in rooting hormone before putting it into a pot filled with well-draining potting mix. Place the pot in water it, too. With patience, roots will develop in a few weeks. After the roots emerge, the new plant can be transplanted into its permanent home.

Seed Propagation

Seed propagation is more labour intensive and not as predictable but an excellent project for patient gardeners. In late autumn, collect seeds from mature Magnolia Betty plants, place them in a cool dry place, and plant when ready. Stratify seeds by dry (4 months) or cold (3 months) placing them in moist sand or peat and refrigerating them, and then plant them in a pot or in the ground. Keep the medium moist and be patient, as germination can be as short as a few weeks or as long as several months with seedlings still requiring several years’ time to be large enough to be successfully planted into the garden.